Columns, How to Be Irish in Philly

How to Be Irish in Philadelphia This Weekend

She’s cute as a set of pearl buttons on a twinset, and Angelina Carberry can play the heck out of a tenor banjo. She joins her accordionist husband, Martin Quinn, on center stage on Saturday, July 7, at  the Coatesville Cultural Society, 143 E. Lincoln Highway in Coatesville. Like many traditional Irish musicians, Carberry and Quinn come by it naturally: Angelina’s father, Peter, and grandfather, Kevin, were both musicians; Quinn comes from a long line of Irish musicians and storytellers. (If you’ve been to a trad concert, you know that most musicians, whatever their instrument, almost always have a way with words too. Be prepared to grin. And expect a good toe-tapping time.)

The concert begins at 8 PM and is part of Frank Dalton’s superlative Irish music series.

Perhaps memories of Meryl Streep’s Irish accent will dance through your head –she played stern Mundy sister, Kate, in the 1998 film version of “Dancing at Lughnasa.” But Brian Friel’s play was meant to be seen live, and it’s playing for only 5 more performances at The Barn Playhouse, Christopher Lane and Rittenhouse Boulevard in Jeffersonville, not far from King of Prussia. This 1991 Olivier Award-winning play tells the story of the five Mundy sisters, seen largely through the eyes of Michael, the illegitimate son of Chris, the youngest Mundy. Set in 1936, the action revolves around the Mundy’s first wireless radio, whose broadcasts release previously unarticulated emotions in the five women, who spontaneously break into song and dance–itself a fine Irish tradition.

You can see the various ways in which sisterhood is powerful on Friday, July 6 and 13, starting at 8 PM; Saturday, July 7 and 14, also at 8 PM. There’s also a matinee on Sunday, July 8, at 2 PM.

Got restless feet syndrome? On Friday,  July 6,  head over to the Knights of Columbus Hall in Palmyra, NJ (321 E. Broad Street)  for the monthly hooley–that’s every kind of Irish music you can think of, plus dancing–with Pancho, Kevin and Jimmy. The craic starts at 8 PM.

See the calendar for more information.

And hey, you sports fans: Why not add Gaelic football and hurling to your Sunday afternoons? This Sunday,  July, 8, starting at 12:30 PM (or thereabouts), you can see an entire afternoon of some of the fiercest, rough-and-tumble action ever to be called a sport on the playing fields of Cardinal Dougherty High School, 6301 N. Second Street, Philadelphia. It’s “footies” first, with  the Kevin Barrys squaring off against Tyrone at 12:30 PM. At 2 PM, it’s Eire Og vs. the St. Patricks. At 3:30 PM, the Young Irelands take on the Kevin Barrys. And rounding out the afternoon, it’s the Brian Borus vs the Shamrocks in a rousing game of hurling, described by a local wag as part hockey, part lacrosse, and part assault with a deadly weapon.

Just be aware that the games, though scheduled, don’t always come off as planned. If the Irish aren’t there, the Asian soccer teams might be, so it won’t be a total loss.

News

Penn’s Landing Irish Festival, 2007

Dancing in the sun.

Dancing in the sun.

It was 84 degrees in the shade at Penn’s Landing—what little shade there is. The sun hammered down on all the happy Irish people in their floppy hats and slick with sweat and Celtic-strength sunblock. Sean Fleming was on stage, the drums and bass pounding, people clapping, cute little kids prancing like ponies in front of the big stage, pleasure boats bobbing like bathtub toys out on the Delaware.

In other words, it was a lot like June in Donegal or Sligo—well, it was like June in Donegal or Sligo will be after about 200 years of global warming.

It was Sunday, a perfect day, even better than the day before, and even though the event was winding down, the waterfront venue was still jammed with Irish-Americans, and lots of other people who might have been Indian, Italian, Japanese—anything but Irish. No matter. For this letter-perfect celebration of Irish culture, anyone who shared in the fun along the Delaware could claim to be as Irish as they wanted to be.

There were certainly plenty of ways to get into the spirit of things—from the cold beer to the lemon and cherry Irish Ice to the goofy shamrock hats and “Irish Princess” babydoll tees for sale 

And, of yes, there was music, and plenty of it: Blackthorn, Sean Fleming, 7 Nations, the Bogside Rogues, and so much more.

The whole shebang was hosted by Finnigan’s Wake and the Philadelphia St. Patrick’s Day Parade Association, and sponsored by PECO and Penn’s Landing Corporation.

Wanna see how much fun we had? Check out the photos.

Arts

Love Stories

Anne and Joe Hill at Joe's book signing in Ambler.

Anne and Joe Hill at Joe's book signing in Ambler.

It’s hard to know which of Joe Hill’s love stories to tell first, the one he wrote about in his novel, “The Irish Rose,” which celebrates the life and mourns the death at 59 of his wife, Lillian, or the one he’s living with his second wife, Anne.

“I met two beautiful women in my life and I married both,” Hill said, laughing, at a recent book signing at the Shanachie Pub and Restaurant in Ambler.

We’ll start with Lillian, who is Tara O’Shea O’Malley in “The Irish Rose,” A Dublin-born 24-year-old who emigrated to the US and married at the age of 29, bearing four children. In his book, Hill starts this love story with the beginning of its end, when Tara–Lillian–learns she had breast cancer. As it does in life, the diagnosis tinges everything, even the recounting of the happy days of their marriage to the last pages, when both husband and wife come to grips with the inevitable.

“Lillian died in 1994,” says Hill, who was an elementary school English teacher, now retired from the Philadelphia schools. “I thought my life was over.”

Not long after her death, Hill began writing their story. “When I’m by myself I’m either reading a book or writing. Writing this was a catharsis for me. I wrote it in longhand and went over it many times over the years. Every time I made changes. I’m not computer literate so my kids typed it for me.”

While the writing tempered some measure of his grief, Hill still felt like a shell of a man. “I was a biological, functioning person. My wife died. My life died. But. . .” he smiles. “Then I met Anne and I learned that you can live again. Anne brought me fully back to life.”

Anne, who is 12 years Hill’s senior but looks 20 years younger than her age (83), was a widow, a business owner, and, most important, the head of the St. Christopher Singles Social Support Club. She was, as one of Hill’s friends, who urged him to attend one of the club’s dances, called her, “the redhead who runs the place.”
The dance where they met was actually Anne’s last. “I’d been head of the group for 10 ½ years and I’d stayed too long at the prom,” explains Anne, whose penchant for wisecracking is reminiscent of Myrna Loy’s sparkling, snappy dialogue in the “Thin Man” movies of the ‘30s. “This was Joe’s first dance. In my job, I made a point to go over and greet anyone who was alone, so I approached him and we chatted. Then he asked me, ‘Are you allowed to dance?’”

She was, and they did. And they talked. “It wasn’t love at first sight,” admits Anne, “but there was something there. I knew this man was special. After that night he kept calling and calling. He was determined.”

In fact, Joe called Anne on the anniversary of her husband’s death. “It was July 21 at 11:20 AM and Joe remembered that,” she says, clearly awed. “He talked to me for a half an hour and I asked him at one point, ‘Where are you calling from?’ He said, ‘Rome.’ I was amazed. But that’s the way he is. When he got off the plane he called and asked if he could come over. I had a date that night and I cancelled it!”

He remembers their first kiss. They were standing near the river, looking out at the lights on the water. “Anne was talking and talking, as she does,” he recalls. “I looked at her and I thought, ‘I have to stop those lips from talking!’ So I kissed her.”

 

He also entrusted her with his book. “I wanted her to read it,” he says. She found it heartbreaking. “When I got to the end I couldn’t read anymore. It was like my husband, John’s dying all over again. It was so real,” says Anne, who later helped her husband by editing the last draft of the manuscript before it was published.

In fact, the last few chapters of “The Irish Rose” are so compelling and sad, it’s as difficult to put the book down as it is to read it. Hill leaves Tara’s husband and family on the morning of her funeral, at that time after a death when the polarities of finality and uncertainty both clash and meld.  In the last paragraph, Hill writes, “From my bereavement will I one day awaken reconciled to a new life?”

Clearly, yes.

Music

The First Fireworks of Summer

Gerry O'Beirne and Rosie Shipley

Gerry O'Beirne and Rosie Shipley

You know that old saying about “the elephant in the room,” and how it usually refers to the big, bad thing that no one wants to acknowledge?

Well, Gerry O’Beirne’s “Elephant”—his pet name for a gorgeous, one-of-a-kind guitar hand-crafted by Ithaca instrument artisan Dan Hoffman—truly is a big, bad beastie. In O’Beirne’s hands, you can’t help but acknowledge its powerful presence.

He manages to wring every last ounce of musical expression out of his smudged and well-worn Martin 12-string, too.

In concert with Baltimore fiddler Rosie Shipley Saturday night at the Coatesville Cultural Center, O’Beirne coaxed all manner of unearthly sounds from those two guitars—slithery slides, deep and resonant drones, and glittering harmonics. Throughout the night, O’Beirne at various times channeled blues man Robert Johnson, classical artist Andres Segovia, Dobro master Jerry Douglas, and even one-hit zitherist (“The Third Man”) Anton Karas—sometimes, all in the same tune.
With the Elephant, O’Beirne offered a delicately nuanced interpretation of his tune, “Western Highway,” previously recorded both by Maura O’Connell and DANÚ lead singer Muireann Nic Amhlaoibh (who was to have been the headliner before she was waylaid by laryngitis). Wielding the 12-string, O’Beirne’s dazzling performance of another tune, “Long Beating Wing,” left the audience practically breathless.

O’Beirne managed to top even those fireworks with virtuoso performances on, of all things, a ukulele. Don Ho must have been spinning in his grave. Tiny bubbles, my arse.

With all of this praise for Gerry O’Beirne, you might wonder whether Rosie Shipley was even in the room. No need to wonder. This one-time student of master fiddler Brendan Mulvilhill did her old teacher proud.

Shipley plays with power, poise and no small measure of daring. With O’Beirne at her side, she’s an unstoppable and potently creative force. One example: Shipley’s up-tempo interpretation of Carolan’s Concerto, traditionally performed in a pretty, subdued baroque style.

As a teen, Shipley studied at the Gaelic College of Celtic Arts and Crafts in Nova Scotia. (Where, she adds, she also wove tartans and made out with boys in kilts.) Thank goodness for the Scots influence, because she treated the audience to a couple of lovely strathspeys, which you don’t often hear in traditional Irish performances.

Likewise, Shipley and O’Beirne drew on non-Irish influences to close out the night with a set of tunes from the American South: “There Ain’t No Whiskey in This Town” and “Cluck Old Hen.” On the latter, the fiddle strings were smokin’. (And O’Beirne’s uke rang out like a banjo.)

Did we miss Muireann Nic Amhlaoibh? Of course, but in another way the loss was also our good fortune as these two superb musicians ably and satisfyingly filled the breach.

News

Gather Ye Rosebuds

On June 22, first grade teacher Christine Frawley of Yardley will hand over her tiara and sash to a new “Rose of Tralee” who will compete with Roses from Ireland to Australia at the popular international festival held every year in Tralee, County, Kerry Ireland. It’s one of the most-watched shows on Irish television and draws big-name celebrity guests. In Philadelphia, the Rose is selected at a dinner-dance in the Grand Ballroom of the Hyatt Penn’s Landing, this year on Friday, June 22.

But the Rose candidates don’t meet for the first time in their ball gowns. On Sunday, June 3, they met at a tea given in their honor at the Glen Mills home of Tom and Mary Conaghan. Tom Conaghan is executive director of the Irish Immigration and Pastoral Center in Upper Darby, the nonprofit organization that helps Irish immigrants with housing, employment and immigration issues and sponsors the Rose of Tralee pageant. The Rose of Tralee Selection Ball is the IAPC’s sole annual fundraiser.

This year, the organizers have added a little extra zip to the pageant: the Rosebuds, girls 13 and under who will attend to the Rose candidates during the ceremony. “This is something they’ve done in other cities and we decided to add it this year,” says Rose candidate coordinator Karen Conaghan.

Cuteness and beauty–it should be an unbeatable combination.

The 6th Annual Philadelphia Rose of Tralee Selection Ball will be held on Friday, June 22, at the Hyatt Penn’s Landing. Cocktails start at 7 PM, dinner and dancing at 8 PM. Music will be provided by the Andy Cooney Band.

Tickets are $100 and include dinner and open bar all night. They must be purchased in advance. To order yours, call 610-789-6355.

Arts

How to Celebrate Bloomsday in Philadelphia

On June 16 every year, millions of James Joyce aficionados around the globe flock to hear readings of their favorite Joyce work, “Ulysses,” which chronicles a day in the life of a Dublin man, Leopold Bloom. And Bloomsday is no ordinary day in Philadelphia either. After all, the city’s Rosenbach Museum houses a copy of Joyce’s original manuscript of the novel, which was widely banned in its day and continues to flummox college literature majors with its highly stylized form and language. This is not beach reading, folks.

But Joyce fans are like Deadheads (fans of The Grateful Dead, not Joyce’s short story, “The Dead)”: They love this book, possibly enough to camp out to get the best seat at the readings.

That said, there’s something for everyone in the city’s celebration of this literary landmark. You don’t even have to know how to read to go on a pub crawl. But to help you get up to speed, Fergie’s Pub at 1214 Sansom Street (owner Fergus Carey is a perennial reader at Bloomsday) is sponsoring a Bloomsday 101 at 6 PM on Friday, June 15, before sending you off for a pint at their bar or the following fine establishments with Bloomsday specials:

Irish Pub
1123 Walnut Street
$2.00 pints of Miller, Miller Lite, Bud, Bud Lite
$2.50 mixed well drinks

Nodding Head
1516 Sansom Street
Reasonably priced and great fries!

McGlinchey’s
259 S. 15 th Street (corner of 15th and Manning, between Spruce and Locust Streets)
20 oz. mugs of Rolling Rock for $2.35

By then you should have boned up on another Joyce classic, the aforementioned short story, “The Dead,” from the book, “Dubliners. ” On Wednesday evening, June 13, at the Union League, 140 South Broad Street, barrister Brendan Kilty, who owns and has restored 15 Usher’s Island in Dublin–the setting for the story–will discuss the 1987 John Huston film version of “The Dead,” which will be screened following cocktails and hors d’oeuvres at 5:30 PM. Cost is $40. RSVP to Katelyn at 215-546-9422 or email her at katelyn@expertevents.com.

Kilty will also appear at a free screening of the film at 2 PM Friday, June 15, at The City Institute Library at 1905 Locust Street on Rittenhouse Square. No cocktails and hors d’oeuvres at this one.

On the day itself (Saturday, June 16), readers from all walks of life, including local TV personalities, politicians, and at least one publican, will read selections from “Ulysses” at the Rosenbach Museum and Library, 2008-2010 Delancey Place, starting at noon and going on into the evening. Rain location is First Unitarian Church of Philadelphia, 2125 Chestnut Street. For more information, call 215-732-1600, email info@rosenbach.org, or visit the website at www.rosenbach.org. The Rosenbach will also be exhibiting selections from the original “Ulysses” manuscript; the museum will open at 12 PM.

You’ll be “tirsty” after all of this literature, so head over to McGillin’s Olde Ale House at 1310 Drury Street where on Saturday night they’ll be having live music by Baby Brother and the High Five and offering a free beer to anyone carrying a book by Joyce with them. There will be no pop quizzes.

Sports

Investment in Talent Pays off in a Win

The Barrys are all ears for the coach, Gerard Dillon.

The Barrys are all ears for the coach, Gerard Dillon.

By Paul Schneider

So right up front, we have to give Tir na Nog credit. Don’t want to get the Kevin Barrys Gaelic footballers in trouble with the downtown eatery that’s their official sponsor and unofficial destination.

But with apologies to the folks at 16th and Arch, the key location in this story is Billy Murphy’s Pub in East Falls. Or more correctly, the gym behind Billy Murphy’s Pub in East Falls. That’s the winter home of what Gerard Dillon considers the future of Irish football in this country.

While squads that are well-stocked with players from overseas scatter in the off-season, Dillon’s mostly American-born squad, the Kevin Barrys, simply changes venue. After an Autumn of relaxation, they begin to gather in East Falls in mid-January to play basketball and indoor soccer, and to get a head start on being a team again.

“One of the advantages of having a lot of American players is that we have most of the club together all year round,” said Dillon after coaching the Kevin Barrys to a 1-7 to 0-4 victory over Tyrone in Bill Davis Cup play at Cardinal Dougherty High School last Sunday. “With other teams, you lose guys when they go home. Most of our players live here.”

For all of them, the transition from winter indoor workouts to outdoor drills and practices comes—fittingly enough—around St. Patrick’s Day. Over the next several months, there are two key objectives: to coax older players out of “retirement” for one more season and to hone teamwork among the growing group of young Americans.

Some of the latter, like cousins Kevin and Brendan Trainor, grew up with the game through the influence of their fathers. Others, like Horsham’s Dan Clark, participated in other sports as high schoolers, but have come to enjoy the fast pace and challenging play of Gaelic football. All of them, says Dillon, are the next generation of Gaelic football in this country.

“We’ve got to promote the American players,” said Dillon. “They don’t always have the background in the game that the Irish players have, but I think they work harder at learning it sometimes than the Irish. And when you have a good nucleus of American players, you have a team that is with you all year ‘round.”

News

Hot Fun at the AOH Festival in Mont Clare

Reilly Ann and Poppy

Reilly Ann and Poppy

The first person I ran into at the Ancient Order of Hibernians Irish Festival along in St. Michael Park in Mont Clare was an old friend, Verne Leedom, former pipe major for Irish Thunder Pipes and Drums.

Possibly the very next person I ran into was Verne’s granddaughter Reilly Ann.

Not long after that, I bumped into Sean Leedom, Verne’s son, near the horseshoe pits.

I was beginning to think that everybody at the festival on Saturday was a member of the Leedom family.

Not true, though. A hundred or so sun-shy Celts hunkered down in the shade of the picnic pavilion or browsed for Irish jewelry, hats, bumper stickers and other Hibernian tchochkes in the vendors’ tents. Most of the festival-goers, it turned out, actually belonged to other families.

That was the coolest part of an otherwise sweltering day—that so many families turned out for a day along the banks of the Schuylkill, just across the river from Phoenixville. From where I sat—at a picnic table, munching a sausage-and-pepper sandwich on a crusty Conshohocken roll and sipping an ice-cold Coke—it looked like they were having a great time.

Earlier in the day, Irish Thunder Pipes and Drums had performed, and Oliver McElhone as well. By the time I arrived, at mid-afternoon, Fisher and Maher were tearing up the place with a performance of Irish traditional music that was as hot as the day.

Emma Hanson Not long after they left the stage, Burning Bridget Cleary—two fiddlers and a guitarist from the Lehigh Valley—jacked up the energy level even more. (They’d confessed to having consumed large cups of iced coffee before arriving on the Festival grounds. But I heard them at the Valley Forge Scottish-Irish Festival in February. If that performance was any indication, coffee has nothing to do with it. They chug along just fine on their own inexhaustible energy source.)

A little later on, a bevy of Coyle school dancers also entertained the crowd with some high stepping to match their spirits.

For those who weren’t up for high-octane Irish music or dance, there was plenty of lazy summertime slacking off to do. The horseshoe pit, for example, was a pretty popular destination. So were the picnic tables nestled among a nearby stand of trees, where people nursed icy beers and quietly chatted.

Irish weather? No. But still, a great start to the summer for Philadelphia’s Irish.